I have to admit, creating a new garden is my favorite part of gardening! This was my front yard 7 years ago! Oh my!!
[img_assist|nid=1373|title=front yard 7 years ago!|desc=|link=popup|align=right|width=200|height=143]
If you are considering a shade garden under trees, it's important to consider the types of trees, their root systems, and their canopy. This will help you choose the right types of plants, and the precautions and care of the trees and their roots. Remember, without the trees, your dream of a shade garden will remain a dream!
Maples, Elms, Black Walnut, and Pines are a bit more difficult to garden under. Although Oaks have a deeper root system, they also have many surface roots that are important for water and oxygen supply. I recommend never using a tiller, removal of any large roots, or adding more than 2-3" of topsoil. A trees root system goes out to at least the edge of it's canopy, and most likely further. Doing a little research on your trees may be very helpful.
The type of canopy is also important. Dense canopies will provide dense shade, which you will want to keep in mind when choosing plants. A dense canopy also creates an umbrella affect, preventing much rain from getting to the garden. You may want to consider an irrigation system, or at least keep this in mind when monitoring moisture needs. A more open shade canopy will allow you to choose from a wider variety of plants, possibly even dipping into the part shade group. Watch for sunnier spots.
If the area you will be planting is large enough, consider including pathways. Paths make a garden more inviting and provides easier access for upkeep. It's also much nicer viewing a shade garden while enjoying the shade!
Begin by carefully removing grass. Mulching over is not an ideal option, as it can create a barrier that may be harmful to the trees. Work around large roots. Water well and mulch to protect any exposed roots. Add your pathways. I prefer curved or winding paths, as it looks more natural, and I use 4-6 layers of wet newspaper and pine bark wood chips.
It's best to plant mostly perennials, as it minimizes continual disturbance of tree roots. It's also good to start with small size plants, as they require smaller holes. Work some humus into the holes when planting. It is beneficial and not harmful to the trees to top with 4" of mulch, as long as it is bulky, and water and air can penetrate easily. Be sure to keep the mulch away from tree trunks and off the crowns of the plants.
Now ENJOY!! You have a cool place to work on a hot sunny day,,,or drink your ice tea amongst tranquil Hosta and Ferns!
This is my shade garden today!
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Growing under Maple trees...
Do you have any suggestions or comments about growing under maples? I know you said that was one of the most difficult trees to grow under. I am planning to create a shade garden this year and, as it happens, it's under 3 silver maples. I have been collecting plants to put under there and plant to either bury a soaker hose or just lay it winding through the garden - probably the latter.
Some of the plants I've been collecting include hellebores, pink lily of the valley, astilbe and brunerra (jack frost). I am also getting ready to trade for several different types of ferns and should be receiving a ladies mantle any time now. I already have a few hostas. I'd really like to get some cyclamen in there but they've been eluding me. They're so expensive, I'd like to find someone to trade with but no luck so far...Just wondering what your thoughts are...
Beautiful shade garden, by they way, Connie! I am SO jealous! I can only dream at the moment!!
Check out my trade list!!
Check out my trade list!!
Planting under
Planting under Maples... I've read everything from 'don't even try it', to 'it works great'. My experience is mixed. I built up a small area around a Maple where the roots were a problem, and planted Hostas and Impatiens. In 2 years the area was so full of roots the plants had a hard time, no matter how much I watered. But I planted a larger area around the same type of Maple at my mother's house and it's doing fine.
Because of the greater competition with roots you may want to include a good selection of plants that don't mind it a little dry. Hosta, Coral Bells, Foxglove, Pachysandra, Vinca minor, Japanese Fern, and even Stella de Oro daylily are some that I can think of. Hellebores, Cyclamen, Lily of the Valley are also good choices. Brunnera and Astilbe do not like to dry out. I have to give the Astilbes extra water under the Oaks as well. A soaker hose is a great idea.
I'll keep watch for Cyclamen. Mine didn't make it through the winter a few years ago. Here's a fun site about them ... Cyclamen
Thanks for the compliment... your garden will get there!
The snow just melted off mine today... finally!
~ Connie ~ Zone 5 ~ MN
Are there plants that
Are there plants that should be avoided underneath or close to oaks?
DizzyD %-}
I try to avoid too
I try to avoid too many plants that require consistantly moist soil. Too moist all the time is not good for any tree. Some Oak trees are more prone to root rot than the Red and White Oaks I have. For more information on that here's a great link... OAKS
~ Connie ~ Zone 5 ~ MN
Ditto, Dizzy! More pictures
Susan, the Texas Yankee, the Texas Rangerette and the Assistant Administrator
SKBeal's Snazzy Tra
Susan, the Texas Yankee and Assistant Site Administrator
moss
I live in East Tennessee, and have 16 oak trees in my front yard. We have a lot of moss that's taken over the front yard, and our soil was greatly effected by the drought this year. Do you have any recommendations for dealing with these problems?
Barbara Leyden
Hi Barbara,.. There
Hi Barbara,.. There are many different types of moss, as well as many opinions on it's effects in the garden. It grows naturally in most wooded areas so it can't be too detrimental to woodlands, I would think. But, personally, if you're planning on making it a shade garden, I would remove it from that area. It has very shallow roots and is easily removed without disturbing the soil.
I'm not sure if you were planning on making a shade garden, but, amending the soil with humus, as you plant, should help your soil condition. Mulching with leaf mold or other bulky type mulch should aide in water retention. Gardens under trees do need a bit of monitoring for moisture needs, sometimes supplying extra water, even in normal precipitation periods.
~ Connie ~ Zone 5 ~ MN
More pictures of this area,
More pictures of this area, please Lav?
DizzyD %-}
That is terriffic info. I
Wow, Connie! You sure did an
Susan, the Texas Yankee, the Texas Rangerette and the Assistant Administrator
SKBeal's Snazzy Tra
Susan, the Texas Yankee and Assistant Site Administrator
Shade Gardeners UNITE!
Don't forget to love yourself today and forever.
Most excellent Connie! Thank
Lavender, what is your zone,
I live in my own little world, but I like it here
Marie... I am in zone
Marie... I am in zone 5. The soil in this area was not good. It's well draining, but also, was drained of nutrients. I added perennials over the course of 3 seasons, planting some annuals here and there, mostly Impatiens. Humus/manure (purchased) was mixed into the soil in the holes when planting. I also mulched with 3-4 " of leaf/grass mold each year to help improve the soil and benefit the trees. I don't use fertilizers, but instead, improve the soil by working in a little humus around the plants every couple years. I continue to work small areas at a time, so as not to disturb a large area of a trees root system... easier on the back, too! lol
I'm working on an article to include a list of plants and more photos! Thanks so much for all your compliments... I enjoy everyone sharing their ideas!!
~ Connie ~ Zone 5 ~ MN
Good job -- and what a
Blessings all -- praying for your needs. Theresa T
Thanks much, ladies!
Thanks much, ladies! T.,,I'll do an article on my shade garden design,,,just for you! And, I'll try to include a really big diagram! K! hehe
~ Connie ~ Zone 5 ~ MN
Now that's simply
I live in my own little world, but I like it here
This is an excellent